Love Them or Hate Them: The Story of Collioure’s Famous Anchovies
Anchovies are a bit like Marmite. People tend to fall firmly into one of two camps: those who happily pile them onto anything edible, and those who spend several minutes removing them from a pizza as though they have just discovered a health hazard.
Yet these small silver fish have helped put Collioure on the culinary map for centuries.
Long before tourists arrived armed with cameras, beach towels and an impressive ability to park badly, Collioure was a busy fishing port. Anchovies were plentiful, and local fishermen developed ways to preserve them in salt so they could be stored and sold throughout France.
In fact, Collioure’s reputation for anchovies became so well established that the town is still regarded as the anchovy capital of France. Not bad for a fish that many people claim to dislike until they discover it’s secretly flavouring half the dishes they enjoy.
A Few Anchovy Facts
- Anchovies have been processed in Collioure since at least the Middle Ages.
- They are rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, calcium and protein.
- Traditional preparation involves layering the fish in salt and allowing them to mature over several months.
- The fish used are surprisingly small, usually measuring only a few centimetres in length.
- Many chefs use anchovies to add depth to sauces and dressings without diners ever realising they’re there.
Love them or loathe them, anchovies are woven into the history of Collioure just as much as the colourful waterfront and the famous church tower.
If you’ve never ventured beyond anchovies on pizza, here are two traditional French-inspired recipes that might just convert you.
Anchovy and Roasted Pepper Tartines
Simple, colourful and perfect with a glass of chilled rosé (best enjoyed while pretending you’ll only have one glass).
Ingredients
- 1 baguette
- 1 jar roasted red peppers
- 8 anchovy fillets
- Olive oil
- Fresh basil leaves
- Black pepper
Method
Slice the baguette and lightly toast the pieces.
Top each slice with strips of roasted pepper and an anchovy fillet.
Drizzle with a little olive oil, add a few basil leaves and finish with black pepper.
Serve as an apéritif or light lunch.
Anchovy, Potato and Olive Salad
A classic Mediterranean combination that is surprisingly filling.
Ingredients
- 500g new potatoes
- 10 anchovy fillets
- A handful of black olives
- 1 small red onion
- Olive oil
- 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
- Fresh parsley
Method
Boil the potatoes until tender and allow them to cool slightly.
Slice the potatoes and red onion and place in a large bowl.
Add the anchovies and olives.
Mix the olive oil and vinegar together and pour over the salad.
Scatter with chopped parsley and serve warm or cold.
A Taste of the Côte Vermeille
Whether you’re already an anchovy enthusiast or still convinced fish should never come from a tin, Collioure’s anchovies are an important part of the town’s story.
They have supported local families for generations and helped make this small corner of the Pyrénées-Orientales known throughout France.
And if you’re visiting Collioure this summer, why not give them a try? At worst you’ll confirm that anchovies aren’t for you. At best you’ll discover what the fuss has been about all these years.