Walk the Region: Les Crêtes de Serrabona

with Tim and Chris Parker

Key Info

An invigorating 4 ½ hour circular walk with 680m of ascent.

The walk offers wonderful views and some interesting historical/archaeological features.

Can be shortened by 1 hour if you choose not to visit the unique ice well.

Walking boots essential on the rocky, sandy paths. Walking poles helpful. Head torch for visit to ice well.

Route offers shade in early and later sections.

Waymarking is yellow and white in parts with unofficial orange spots.

Access:  map IGN 1:25,000  Céret/Amélie les Bains 2449 OT; Thuir, Ille sur Tet  2448 OT

Serrabona

Prieuré de Serrabone

Meaning ‘bonne Colline’ or ‘good mountain, the views from this small 12th Century priory are stunning, and well worth the rather torturous but panoramic mountain drive.

It is a fine example of Romanesque art with its cloistered hall, perfectly preserved pink marble carvings of plants and animals sculpted onto the pillars, arches (tribunes) and an indoor cloister also carved from the region’s famous pink marble. A real treat!

Immaculate gardens provide an ideal spot for a picnic, quiet meditation and contemplation.

Religious life wasn’t always treated with the respect and discipline required by Catholic priests. In 1413 Canon Bernat Taillet was ordered to get rid of the woman who had moved into the priory with him and in 1448 Prior Bernat Joer was removed from office for ‘crimes énormes’!

Small admission charge but on “jours de patrimoine” (check with any local tourist office) entrance is free and there are many interesting exhibitions such as lace making and mock battles.

Serrabona

Start

Take the N116 from Perpignan towards Prades, turning left at Bouleternère (end of dual carriageway). Priory of Serrabonne signed from this roundabout. Follow D618 through the village and up the valley to right turn, D 84, to Priory.

From car park walk towards Priory. At entrance to gravelled area footpath signed “Les Crêtes” on right up steps.

The walk

After 20 metres take right fork, signed “Roca Roja”. Path rises steadily uphill, eventually passing through gate to reach more open area and then steeper climb to the crest at 970m altitude (1 hour to this point). Superb view of Le Canigou.

Serrabona

Choice here to go right to peak Roca Roja and the ice well, a little further on, or turn left to continue crest. The first option adds 1 hour to the walk but is well worth it if you want to see the best preserved ice well in the department and have the energy.



Ice well

An ice well or ice house was used for storing ice throughout the year before the invention of electricity and the modern refrigerator.

Usually partly or completely underground, they were built near natural sources of ice in winter, mainly lakes and rivers.

Ice and snow would be hacked out from these water sources, placed in the ice well, and insulated against melting by straw or sawdust, and chunks would be hacked off the main block as required.

The ice would stay frozen for many months under these conditions.

Option 1: Roca Roja & ice well

Turn right for 20 metres, pass through gate and follow path behind Pic Ambrosi (on right), to head towards Roca Roja.

After a section of ferns and brush the path rises to summit at 1015m. 360° panorama is stunning.

Orange spots mark the path off the summit, (continuing in same direction) to the Coll. Behind a lone cork oak tree on right is the top of the ice well. Beware – it is 12m deep!!

Serrabona
Ice well

Not mentioned on the map, this ice well is the best preserved example in the department. The corridor for access, lower down, is about 12 metres long.  The stonework inside is in excellent condition.

Retrace your steps over Roca Roja back to where you emerged onto crest.  Continue circular route at Option 2.

Option 2: Continuation of circular route

Follow the undulating line of the crest with old electric fence on your right.

After approx. 30 mins pass through metal gate.  Almost immediately on left notice a very large flat rock with curious cupules and engraved crosses, Cimentiri dels Moros.

Serrabona
Cupole and crosses at Cimeteri dels Moros

Cupules

Coming from the Latin for ‘small cup’, cupoles were used by ancient healers to control rain and weather.

They were carved with lines and grooves to channel the rain, often in the at shape of a cross or several circles.

Nobody is absolutely sure of their usage really but they are acknowledged as a form of prehistoric art.

Although this is called the cemetery of the Moors it is not thought to be an arab cemetery but rather the remains of a Neolithic dolmen.

Dolmen

A dolmen is a prehistoric monument of two or more upright stones supporting a horizontal stone slab.

These ancient stone constructions are still to be found, especially in Britain and France, and believed to be early tombs or burial chambers.

Very little else is known for sure about their original usage but they showcase the skill of Neolithic builders, some of the crowning stones weighing in at as much as 160 tonnes

About 20 metres before Le Col des Arques and its stone orri, look out for a cairn on your left, marking the footpath which descends to the Coll de Saleig. Reach Col 20 mins from crest.

Serr
Stone orri on ridge

Orri

As far as we know, this word originated here in the Languedoc-Roussillon and describes an enclosure used to shelter sheep and shepherds from the elements.

Join a double track and follow it until you reach an old blue camionette.  A rusty old sign indicates the route down, to left but Serrabone is also written on the camionette!

Serrabona
Old cammioinette on descent

Descend to a piste, turn right 20 metres and pick up path on left.

Descend 100 metres to Coll d’Aspic to join ancient path between Boule d’Amont and Serrabonne. Turn left.

Serrabona
Sign at meeting path to Boule d Amont

Boule d'Amont

The small village of Boule-d’Amont nearby has a pretty cobbled square with old well in the middle, and houses built of exposed stone, but it is really for its church, St Saturnin, that lovers of religious relics should visit.

A magnificent gold alter piece depicting Christ and the four evangelists, an unusual black Madonna, chalices, silver crosses and other treasures make the short detour worthwhile.

saturnin boule d'amont

Footpath contours round mountainside in shady oak woodland before it drops to ravine (cross stream) and zig zags up the other side to col.

Les Aspres

The Aspres, the range of hills between the Roussillon Plain and Canigou, are so called because of their harsh (âpre), dry and schisty landscape, which has a beauty of its own.

Kermes oaks, cork oaks, strawberry trees, gorse, lavender, thyme, rosemary, sage are in their natural habitat here.

Walks are a delight, punctuated by the smell of the garrigue, but fire is a very real hazard in this pretty, aromatic tinderbox.

Cross a piste and continue straight on, enjoying the view of Priory from the woods.

Serrabona
View of Priory

Contour round hillside again to reach the Priory.

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