Exploring the Conflent: History, Mountains & Hidden Villages
Today we head inland to the cooler air of the Conflent region — a land of striking contrasts, rich in Catalan history and natural beauty. From the snowy slopes of Mount Canigou and wild mountain terrain to tranquil lakes and sun-drenched medieval villages, the Conflent offers one of the most varied landscapes in the Pyrénées-Orientales.
🏛 PRADES
The town’s position at the foot of Mount Canigou perfectly pinpoints Prades as a starting point for a variety of activities. Superb walks for all levels, exciting sporty adventures, climbing, canyoning, mountain biking, horse riding, potholing…….and the Sound of Music!
In fact, every summer the Romanesque churches and abbeys of the Conflent become the stage for one of the most prestigious chamber music festivals in the world: the Pablo Casals Festival.
Set between the Mediterranean and the mountains, Prades is the vibrant capital of the Conflent. The town gathers around the imposing Église Saint-Pierre, famous for its magnificent baroque altarpieces by the Sunyer workshop — a blaze of gold leaf, twisted columns and expressive figures.
Tuesday mornings bring one of the busiest markets in the département, filling the squares with colour, produce and local life.
🏰 THE ABBEYS AND PRIORIES…..
Abbaye Saint-Michel de Cuxa
The 10th Century Abbey of St Michel de Cuxa is well signposted from Prades. With an imposing interior – majestic in its very simplicity – and Canigou towering in the background, the setting is stunning and inspirational. Beneath the church is a crypt and virtually an entire subterranean church supported on a massive central pillar and containing some delightful and primitive holy statues.
Abbaye Saint-Martin du Canigou
The Benedictine Abbey of St Martin de Canigou has held its position on the slopes of Canigou for over ten centuries. Framed by mountain peaks and rich forests, it is a steep and dramatic 45-minute walk from Casteil or 4×4 shuttles operate seasonally www.montagne-transport.com. The abbey has been a place of worship and meditation for many years and religious life continues to this day. Visitors are asked to respect the silence and enjoy the beauty in peace.
WEBSITE
Prieuré de Serrabone
Views from this small 12th Century priory and its fascinating history are stunning, and well worth the torturous panoramic mountain drive. A cloistered hall, with perfectly preserved pink marble carvings of plants and animals sculpted onto the pillars and arches is a real treat, as is an indoor cloister also carved from the region’s famous pink marble. Immaculate gardens provide an ideal spot for a picnic, quiet meditation and contemplation – or a chamber music concert. There is a small admission charge.
Marcevol
A stunning drive through rolling vineyards brings you to Marcevol and its ancient XII century priory. Restored in the 80s and 90s, it was one of the pilgrim stops on route to St Jacques de Compostelle and is known for its excellent acoustics.
🏘 THE VILLAGES…a random presentation
Mosset
This pretty medieval village originally grew up around the 12th century castle of Mosset, and is classed as one of the ‘Plus Beaux Villages de France’. The Church of St Julien and Ste Baselisse is well worth a visit, its Bell Tower sporting one of the few mechanical clocks still functioning in the P-O.
The pine tree sprouting from the clock tower dates from the French Revolution and is said to symbolise the strength and tenacity of Mosset’s inhabitants.
A small, round museum, Tour des Parfums, used to be dedicated to scents and fragrances, but today it is a small local information centre, shop selling local products and base for electric-bike hire, but once upon a time, visitors could explore the history of perfumery, smell different natural essences and even create their own perfume.
Eus
Terraced into a granite hillside, this once-fortified pedestrian-only village is also classed among France’s most beautiful villages and reputedly one of the sunniest. Narrow, be-flowered, cobbled streets are joined by ancient vaulted passageways. The imposing 18th Century church of St Vincent, perched on a rocky peak, has old ramparts to walk around with panoramic views of the Conflent Valley. Eus also has the reputation of being the sunniest village in France!
Vinça
A small village with restaurant and pretty church and an impressive ‘plan d’eau’ as well as a pleasant lake with supervised swimming where you can relax, enjoy seasonal water activities and make the most of a refreshing break on a hot summer’s day
Escaro
Escaro has a long mining history, with a fascinating museum, ‘Memoire de la Mine’. It was the first area in France to produce fluorspar, dubbed ‘the most colourful mineral in the world’ (also mined at the Blue John Cavern in Derbyshire). The mine finally closed in 1993 when the mineral was exhausted, and its population of 429 dwindled to just 85. When underground tunnels put the village at risk of collapse, the old St Martin’s Church was rebuilt further south, and a new village grew up around the church. Today it is a small and pleasant village, with great views and walking opportunities – well worth a visit.
Villefranche-de-Conflent
This perfectly preserved fortified medieval town whisks you back thousands of years. Wander the ancient ramparts, climb ‘les milles marches’ – 1279 steps of underground staircase leading to Fort Liberia, perched above the town, and dominated by Canigou. In the forst, visit the Prison de Dames, where infamous lady poisoners were chained to the wall of their cell. Wax models of them sit there still. A UNESCO-listed Vauban fortified town, Villefranche is one of the most atmospheric stops in the region.
Mantet
Just after Villefranche de Conflent, turn left onto the D6 through Fuilla, Sahorre, and Py as the road climbs and winds for about 20 km to the Col de Mantet. From there you can see the tiny village below on your left. On your right, stone sheep graze. 
Mantet was the last village in France to get electricity. In fact, the road only reached it in 1964 when the village had been resettled after all its inhabitants had been expelled by the Nazis during the war.Current residents of this former smuggling hideout make a living from selling cheese and honey, and guiding tourists amidst the stunning scenery of the 3000 hectare Nature Reserve. Mountain streams provide ideal picnic spots, and wild flowers abound.
Vernet-les-Bains & Corneilla de Conflent
Driving towards Vernet les Bains, pass through Corneilla de Conflent, once home to Guillem Ramon, Count of Cerdagne. All that remains of his palace is a tower, but the rather splendid looking church has some fine examples of Catalan Romanesque art and the whole village has an olde worlde charm.
Vernet itself was a highly fashionable ‘station thermale’ at the start of the 20th century. Today, it is a pretty Catalan village and spa, recommended for respiratory and rheumatic disorders. Along with bars, restaurants and casino, its steep, narrow, flower-decked streets, lead to the XII century church of Saint Saturnin attached to the castle. This also makes a great base for exploring, whether driving or walking. The Cady valley and surrounding countryside is spectacular, and Canigou omnipresent.
Catllar
From Prades, if you are driving up to Molitg les Bains or Mosset, you will pass through the small village of Catllar. One blink and it’s gone, but if you have a few minutes, take a right turn into the village square and have a drink in the village. The Catllar church dates from 948 with wrought iron bell tower. A short walk brings you to the river and picnic area
The Grand Hotel, Molitg-les-Bains
Impossible to miss when driving the D14 from Prades to Mosset, the splendid Grand Hotel dominates the deep gorge cut by swift running water of the Castellane River. On the left, a tall rocky outcrop is topped by a ruined castle and, hidden from immediate view, a small chapel. On the right, the gothic, grey granite Chateau de Riell. In fact, Pablo Casals regularly stayed at the Grand Hotel, finding a sanctuary to practise his music and relax in the beauty of the surroundings. Today you can have a drink or meal on the terrace where Casals once played, explore the grounds, have a spa treatment, enjoy the concerts, and use the pool if you eat in the restaurant.