UPDATED NOVEMBER 2026

Circular walk above Villefranche-de-Conflent

With Chris and Tim Parker

A 2h 30mins walk with approx 380 metres of ascent. Route signed with yellow waymarks. Wonderful views of Le Massif de Canigou. Very interesting industrial and cultural heritage. *(Walk can be lengthened by 130 metres of ascent and 1 hour in time by dropping down to Corneilla)

Access: map IGN 1:25,000 Massif de Canigou 2349 ET

Getting there

Take the N116 from Perpignan to Prades. Continue to Villefranche de Conflent and park in small car park near entrance to this fascinating, walled town, (

Park in the car park near the entrance to the fascinating walled town of Villefranche-de-Conflent. Please check the parking charges and ticket duration.

Start of walk:

Cross the road carefully, to the left of the bus shelter, where you will see the path heading uphill. Take care when crossing, as this is close to the main N116. The first section is quite stony but rewards us with lovely views back towards Villefranche and Fort Liberia towering above it. Looking down, you may also spot the station and the distinctive yellow carriages of the famous Train Jaune.

Look down on station with “Le train Jaune” rolling stock.

After 10 mins cross the Canal de Bohère.

Continue upwards. Ten mins later path turns away from road and enters pine and oak woodland with earth underfoot.

Thirty mins into the walk reach a bifurcation. Take higher path and continue upwards to reach a flat grassy area signed “Ambulla” (711metres).

Turn right and pass another signpost which indicates Bergerie to right and Corneilla to left. Route from Bergerie will be our return path.

Follow piste to left, cut a corner of it on right soon afterwards, then turn left almost immediately to follow a long stoney track all the way to a col where there is another waymark post in a dip. (All along the track you will have uninterrupted views of Massif de Canigou across valley)

The col has crossroad of tracks. Straight on is towards Fillols. Piste to right is a longer way down to Corneilla. Approaching col pass through large gate and turn immediately right through small gate by a sheep dip to find footpath which leads directly down to Roc Ample. (Not very aptly named as there is no rock just a stone wall!)

Another signpost at Roc Ample indicates the left turn down to Corneilla or straight on for the return to Villefranche. [*To visit Corneilla follow footpath downhill, passing 2 orri in good condition. Path crosses areas of brush and small group of pine trees.

Eventually reach a rocky gulley which leads down to the river below the church. Cross by a footbridge and arrive at 11th-12th century Romanesque church of St Marie. This is a good place to take a break and then to have a look round the small village and church before making your way back to Roc Ample. (1 hour aller-retour)]

At Roc Ample continue straight on if arriving from the coll, and after 5 mins pass right side of old bergerie, cross grassland to soon reach another signpost.

Turn left to follow direction Villefranche. Pass a tree with seat of stones round its base.

Reach a T junction. A diversion to the left will take you 100 metres to a viewpoint overlooking Villefranche and valley of river Cady, Les Grottes de Canalettes and further mountains. Otherwise, turn right to continue route.

After a few minutes reach an old Talc quarry.  Here, talc was quarried until 1960 and used in the ceramics trade.

Path drops to pass under power cables and bends right. At junction take stoney path up on the left.  The path gradually narrows to reach another signpost.

A Bergerie can be visited to left (10 mins) but our route is to the right, and it comes down to the main track on the grassy plateau.

Turn left from Ambulla to retrace our earlier route of ascent. As we enter the woodland and descend towards Villefranche, spare a thought for the people who once worked in the manganese mines in this area. Manganese was an important mineral, used in various industrial processes, and mining provided valuable employment for local families. There is an interesting local story that the men worked underground extracting the manganese while the women carried it down the mountainside to Villefranche. The path became known as the “Chemin du Manganèse”. It is a reminder of how hard life must have been for the people who lived and worked in these mountains.

Turn left from Ambulla to retrace your earlier route of ascent.  Enter woodland and descend to Villefranche le Conflent in about 35 mins.

Once back in Villefranche-de-Conflent, make sure you have enough time to explore this remarkable fortified town. Its narrow medieval streets, little shops and cafés are well worth a wander, and you might even find time for a walk along the impressive ramparts. Villefranche is particularly special because its fortifications, together with Fort Liberia and the Cova Bastera, form part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing recognising the military fortifications designed by the great French engineer Vauban.

A visit to Fort Liberia is also highly recommended, although perhaps best saved for another day, as it involves quite a climb unless you take the 4×4 shuttle. Built under Vauban’s direction in the late 17th century, the fort dominates the town from its position high above the valley. And if you do visit, don’t miss the famous underground staircase with its 765 steps connecting the fort to the town below. It is quite an experience!

This is a lovely walk for autumn and winter, with beautiful woodland, open mountain views and plenty of interest along the way. However, temperatures can be considerably cooler in the mountains than on the coast, and the stony paths can become slippery after rain. Walking boots, warm clothing and suitable weather protection are recommended.