2 “Poisoning the village” 2 Basil Howitt looks back on an eventful summer in his village of Lansac in the Fenouillèdes; not least because the entire Conseil Municipal resigned in a Pavarotti-pitched screaming match. First,…

If you head west on the D117 from the Catalan border town of Estagel, with the unforgettable 10th century fortress of Quéribus towering above you on your right, you soon come to Maury, the first village along this route in Le Fenouillèdes, or the Land of Fennel – or even Fenolheda in Occitan-speak. Le Fenouillèdes is part of Occitan Languedoc, whose inhabitants are rather scornfully referred to by Catalans as “les gabatx” or foreigners. Skirmishes between the “gabatx” of Maury and the youths of Estagel are still not unknown.

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