Millas, on the N116 between Perpignan and Ille sur Tet, has a rather lovely church, full of great Baroque art, plenty of shops and cafés – but today we are heading up to the Col de la Bataille, ancient battle ground and poignant memorial to members of the resistance group Henri Barbusse,

The fruits of the arbousier can be eaten fresh, but don’t have much flavour, unless you want to make “medronheira” (strawberry tree firewater), a Portuguese brandy…but the kaki chutney is delicious.