Ants aren’t loved by many, especially when they invade the house. However, one of the most common and arguably fascinating species in Mediterranean areas like ours is the Harvester (Messor barbarus), which won’t be remotely interested in heading for your kitchen in search of meaty or sugary tidbits.

Millas, on the N116 between Perpignan and Ille sur Tet, has a rather lovely church, full of great Baroque art, plenty of shops and cafés – but today we are heading up to the Col de la Bataille, ancient battle ground and poignant memorial to members of the resistance group Henri Barbusse,