Between France and Spain on the N9 is a strange no man’s land dedicated to consumerism. Stroll down the ‘route principale’ from the French side, and you are still in France……

As you head up the N116 towards the high Pyrenees after Prades, the Têt Valley narrows dramatically where it meets the valley of the Cady, and the perfectly preserved fortified medieval town of Villefranche de Conflent whisks you back thousands of years in time.

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