The Haut Vallespir, Coustouges & a taste of Catalonia

A scenic drive, a gentle village stroll and two tempting lunch options — choose your own pace.

This is another outing for those who like to see a lot without necessarily walking a lot.

The idea behind A Walk, a Drive & a Lunch is simple: find somewhere beautiful, take a pleasant drive to get there, stretch your legs with a short and easy walk, and then settle down to a good lunch.

Today’s trip takes us up through the Haut Vallespir, across the mountains towards Spain, with spectacular scenery all the way.

And there are two possible lunches.

You can stop at Domaine de Falgos for a rather more leisurely and refined lunch in beautiful surroundings — or, if you’re not hungry yet, carry on into Spain for a more traditional Catalan experience at Can Mach in Tapis.

The only essential ingredient is a reasonably clear day to enjoy some superb scenery.

🚗 THE DRIVE

Set off after breakfast and take the D115 through Céret, Amélie-les-Bains and Arles-sur-Tech, heading steadily upwards into the Haut Vallespir.

Once through Arles-sur-Tech, the landscape begins to change noticeably as the road climbs deeper into the valley. Take the D3 towards Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans and Coustouges, and settle in for a beautiful mountain drive.

The road winds steadily upwards, with occasional places where you can pull over for photographs. The mountains become more dramatic, the villages more remote and, on a clear day, the views will take your breath away

Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans — cloth, espadrilles and history

Our first stop is Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans, a village whose identity is closely bound up with two very colourful Catalan traditions: textile weaving and espadrille making.

Park in the village centre and have a wander.

Les Toiles du Soleil
First, there’s the irresistible possibility of spending money.
The village is famous for Les Toiles du Soleil, whose brightly coloured Catalan stripes have become almost synonymous with the region. The shop is full of fabrics, bags, cushions, table linen and accessories — all those things you didn’t know you needed until you saw them.

If colourful Catalan stripes are your weakness, you have been warned. They are not cheap! Credit cards at the ready.

Création Catalane
Don’t miss Création Catalane, the village’s traditional espadrille workshop, where the famous Catalan vigatanes are still made by hand in Saint-Laurent-de-Cerdans. You can visit the workshop and see these iconic shoes being made, with guided visits currently offered during the summer season (and occasionally out of season). Check times before you go, as visits can vary. There’s also a shop if you fancy taking home a pair of your own.

A little history

Just a short walk away is the Maison du Patrimoine et de la Mémoire André Abet, housed in the former Union Sandalière cooperative factory.

It tells the story of the village’s traditional industries — particularly weaving and espadrille manufacture — but also of La Retirada, the exodus of Spanish Republicans across the Pyrenees in 1939.

You can see how the espadrilles are made, and study the history of the Bear Festival which still takes place in St Laurent each February.

A fascinating photographic record of the Retirada is displayed on the wooden dormitory bunks in which some of the 70,000 refugees slept in St Laurent de Cerdans at the end of the Spanish Civil War. Yet another corner of the museum is dedicated to cinema history in the form of numerous old film posters, film equipment and machinery.

You can also find information about the Cami de Retirada, the mountain routes followed by those making their way across the frontier.

It’s a small museum, but well worth a visit if you have the time.

Allow: 30–60 minutes.

Do check opening times, particularly outside the main season.

🚶 THE WALK – Coustouges — just enough to stretch your legs

Now it’s time to get back in the car and continue towards Coustouges village, named after  the guard post ‘custodia’, set up by the Romans in 130BC.

This is where our Walk comes in. And don’t worry — this isn’t a hike. Park in the village and simply have a wander around this pretty little hilltop village close to the Spanish border, with narrow lanes, old stone houses and the beautiful church at its heart. Stroll through the village and then follow the little lane towards the viewpoints. The reward is a wonderful panorama stretching away into Spain.

🍴 THE LUNCH

And now comes the difficult decision. Are you hungry yet?

Because you have two choices.

OPTION 1 — Lunch at Falgos Golf Domaine

For those who are ready to eat, Le Domaine de Falgos is much more than just a golf course. The 4* hotel was renovated in 2024 and the panoramic ‘Lunch & Spa’ deal offers unlimited access to the spa facilities: heated pool, sauna, hammam.

Think French/Mediterranean rather than rustic Spanish Catalan — a little more polished, but still very much rooted in the region.

So if the mountain air has done its work and you’re ready for lunch, turn off towards Domaine de Falgos before continuing to Coustouges.

Falgos is your choice if…

• You want lunch without going all the way into Spain.
• You like a beautiful setting.
• You prefer French/Mediterranean cooking.
• You’d like the possibility of a longer, more leisurely lunch.
• You are tempted by the spa

OR…

Not hungry yet

OPTION 2 — Carry on to Spain and lunch at Can Mach

If you’ve had a leisurely breakfast and the thought of lunch at eleven-thirty makes you shudder, simply carry on. Return to the main road, head towards Coustouges and cross the frontier into Spain. The road winds down into South Catalonia and, after around fifteen minutes, you’ll arrive at Tapis, a tiny mountain settlement belonging to Maçanet de Cabrenys.

And here we find Can Mach for those looking for something more traditionally Catalan and rustic.

Where Falgos is about the setting, the terrace and a more polished French/Mediterranean meal, Can Mach is about Catalan mountain food, tradition and conviviality.

Can Mach is your choice if…

• You aren’t hungry until later.
• You want to cross into Spain.
• You prefer traditional Catalan cooking.
• You enjoy a lively, informal atmosphere.
• You are perfectly happy to eat later Spanish style.

Do check current opening arrangements and, ideally, book before setting off.

If you’ve chosen Falgos, you’ve already had the mountain views and can continue to Coustouges for your gentle walk before heading home.

If you’ve chosen Can Mach, the walk around Coustouges can be done before lunch, which may be particularly sensible.

And if you’re still feeling energetic after lunch, you can continue downhill towards Maçanet de Cabrenys or Darnius, perhaps stopping at the Boadella reservoir for another short stroll.

Or…you could simply admit that lunch was more substantial than anticipated and head home. There is no shame in that. 🙂

🚗 THE WAY HOME

From Darnius and the surrounding area you’re approaching the main N-II route.

At this point you have several possibilities.

Continue towards Figueres if you fancy an evening in Spain, or head towards La Jonquera for a final opportunity for retail therapy at the the many many supermarkets or the Gran Jonquera Outlet & Shopping centre.

Alternatively, simply return towards the border and Le Boulou, joining the A9 if you’re heading towards Perpignan.