If you head west on the D117 from the Catalan border town of Estagel, with the unforgettable 10th century fortress of Quéribus towering above you on your right, you soon come to Maury, the first village along this route in Le Fenouillèdes, or the Land of Fennel – or even Fenolheda in Occitan-speak. Le Fenouillèdes is part of Occitan Languedoc, whose inhabitants are rather scornfully referred to by Catalans as “les gabatx” or foreigners. Skirmishes between the “gabatx” of Maury and the youths of Estagel are still not unknown.

Happy New Year! I know it’s been a while since I last wrote but we spent Christmas in Paris chez les parents-in-law and I was banned from mentioning it as Olivier has this crazy notion that it is not a good idea to announce your holiday plans to the internet world, particularly when your address is plastered all over your website and magazine. I grudgingly accepted that he may have a valid point!