I don’t think I have been in a tapas bar from Sanlucar to Girona, Madrid to San Sebastián, which has not had this dish on their menu. It is possibly the epitome of Spanish tapas. After decades of sampling versions filled with all sorts of exciting ingredients, I have come to the conclusion that the traditional Catalan Truita de Patata is simply the best.

At this time of year the P-O transforms into a kaleidoscope of wildflowers. Lesley McLaren takes us through a few of the more common ones to be found in the verges, hedgerows and rocky slopes of the Albères and Vallespir.

Gourmet delights and fine wines are not confined to Paris’s grand avenues, Dijon’s cobbled lanes, Lyon’s Burgundian core or Bordeaux’s Garonne quais. Surrounded by vines, orchards and Canigou’s high wild windswept pastures, the soft Mediterranean…