with Tim and Chris Parker… UPDATED IN 2023

Tour de Querroig & Puig Joan Ridge Walk (Banyuls-sur-Mer)

One of the most spectacular ridge walks on the Côte Vermeille, this circular route above Banyuls-sur-Mer offers sweeping views into both France and Spain, combined with a powerful historical dimension.

At a Glance

• Distance: 12–13 km

• Ascent: approx. 720 m

• Time: 5–6 hours

• Level: Difficult (experienced walkers)

• Start point: Puig del Mas (Banyuls-sur-Mer)

Need to know Before You Go

This is a demanding and exposed walk.

Good walking boots are essential. Carry plenty of water (at least 2 litres per person in warm weather) as there is  very little shade. Avoid in strong Tramontane wind, extreme heat or after heavy rain.
In summer, access may be restricted due to fire risk so check conditions locally and use a GPS tracker or walking app if possible.

Start Point

Begin in the village of Puig del Mas, just above Banyuls. From the seafront, take Avenue Général de Gaulle and turn left over the metal bridge immediately after the railway viaduct. Park at Place Abel Pagès, where the route is signposted. Follow yellow PR waymarks and signs for the Walter Benjamin Trail.

The Walk

From the car park, head uphill through Rue des Évadés de France. Shortly after, take steps down to cross a dry (seasonal) stream bed, then rejoin a small road.

After around 20 metres, take the track on the left. It begins as a concreted path before becoming a stony trail climbing steadily through vineyards. Rejoin a road and turn left to reach the Col del Bast in around 25 minutes.

Here, a panel marks the route taken in 1940 by philosopher Walter Benjamin as he fled Nazi-occupied France.

Climbing to the Ridge

From the col, take the narrow uphill path. Ahead, you’ll see key landmarks on the ridge: a fire watchtower and the masts on Puig Joan.

At a fork in the tracks, take the upper piste (wide gravel track) to the right. After a couple of bends, look carefully for a footpath on the right marked by a cairn, climbing through cork oak trees. (If you reach a vineyard, you’ve gone too far.)

Continue climbing to a pylon (around 1 hour), then join a track briefly before continuing uphill.

A sign marks Font del Bana, where Walter Benjamin and his group are said to have rested.

⚠️ This water is not potable.

Col de Rumpissa – “Hill of Freedom”

The path contours across the hillside, crossing rocky sections to reach Col de Rumpissa (531m). A faded panel recalls Benjamin’s words as he approached the Spanish border.

Here, the historic escape route descends towards Spain—but our route turns uphill.

Tour de Querroig (672m)

A steady climb of around 20 minutes leads to the summit of Tour de Querroig.

This ruined watchtower, built in the late 13th century on the remains of an earlier fort, marks the highest point of the walk. From here, the views are outstanding—across the Mediterranean, along the Côte Vermeille, and deep into Spain.

It’s the perfect place for a well-earned break.

The Ridge Walk

Continue through a gap in the wall and descend carefully. The ridge that follows is one of the highlights of the walk—wild, open, and dramatic.

Expect:

• undulating terrain

• rocky sections

• some exposed stretches requiring careful footing

A head for heights and good balance are helpful here.

Col de Cerbère & Puig Joan

After around 3h45, you reach Col de Cerbère, near a fire watchtower, with Puig Joan rising just behind.

Take the piste (AP62) passing below the tower. At a pylon, turn left onto a footpath descending along a rocky ridge.

Look out for:

• a small dolmen

• views down to Plage de Peyrefite and its underwater snorkelling trail

Return to Banyuls

At Col de la Creu, take the signed path left to reach a road. Turn right, then shortly after right again, passing La Tour del Pagès.

Take the track through pine trees on the left, then a footpath behind houses leading back into the village.

Descend to the road and return to your starting point at Puig del Mas.

Highlights

• Spectacular coastal and cross-border views

• Dramatic ridge walking

• Historical connection to Walter Benjamin

• Quiet, wild landscapes above the Mediterranean

This is not a casual stroll—but for experienced walkers, it’s one of the most rewarding routes in the Pyrénées-Orientales.

A walk where nature, history and landscape come together—and where every step feels a little closer to the edge of the world.