By Peter Spencer
I would imagine anyone reading this has admired and marvelled at Canigou from near and far. It is certainly difficult to ignore.
We have lived in Le Boulou for 22 years, but it wasn’t until recently, during some “googling”, that I came across a travel article from 1998, which touched on Canigou’s name. They called it “Dogs Tooth Peak” based on its Latin root.
This “peaked” my interest and, in discussion with Kate at P-O Life, I agreed to put together an article on all things Canigou.
I have thus googled some more and produced these notes on the mountain and its surroundings that I hope are of interest and, in some cases, provide some surprises for the reader. To embellish the text, I have included a few of the many photos I’ve taken since the start of the Millennium.
If you live within sight of the mountain, you have either visited the summit, the chalet de Cortalets, Vernet les Bains or similar adjacent villages and towns and thus a lot of what follows will be of no surprise but for those new to the area I hope it gives you a feel for what there is to explore on and around this sacred Mountain of the Catalan people.
Régions adjacent to Conflent
Canigou sits in the Conflent “Comarca ”, between two valleys, that of the Tech ( Vallespir ) and the Têt ( Conflent ).
It is classified as a “Grand site of France” .
Régions adjacent to Conflent
Capcir
Pays de Sault (Aude)
Fenouillèdes
Cerdagne
Ribéral, Aspres
Ripollès (Catalogne)
Vallespir
In the Beginning
The Pyrenees are older than the Alps: their sediments were first deposited in coastal basins during the Paleozoic and Mesozoic eras. Between 100 and 150 million years ago, during the Lower Cretaceous Period, the Bay of Biscay fanned out, pushing present- day Spain against France and applying intense compressional pressure to large layers of sedimentary rock. The intense pressure and uplifting of the Earth’s crust first affected the eastern part and moved progressively to the entire chain, culminating in the Eocene Epoch.
Thus, with continental drift, the Pyrenees were created and the continents, as we know them now, started to take shape. This upheaval created a string of summits from the Bay of Biscay to the Mediterranean with 126 of them rising above 3000m.
Dropping in altitude we reach peak No.139 situated c.50km from the sea at an elevation 2784m. This is “Dogs tooth peak” or, as we know it, Canigou.
Even coming in at No.139 it dwarfs anything in the UK (Ben Nevis and Snowdon combined total just 2430m).
Horrible histories
The Pyrenees are a natural barrier between what is now Spain and Southern France. The region has been fought over, and changed hands, over many centuries leaving numerous historic sites and traces of different peoples and cultures.
With the ice receding over Europe people (Neanderthals) started to settle in the area, not least in Tautavel, where remains have been found dating the inhabitants back 450,000 years.
Moving swiftly on to 60,000 years ago traces of Homo Sapiens have been found at the foot of Canigou. These inhabitants created Megaliths, Dolmens and Menhirs on both sides of the Pyrenees which can be visited today.
Jumping into the Tardis and moving rapidly through time we find the Greeks and Phoenicians paid regular visits c.700 BC to what is now Narbonne, Collioure and Port Vendres leaving their own souvenirs.
The area then morphed into “Gaul “. In turn this regime changed hands with the arrival of the Romans as they spread out across Europe laying roads, like the “ Via Domitia ”, as they progressed into Southern Gaul and into the Iberian Peninsula. On the way they very kindly helped established vineyards (as it happens the Greeks had already kicked things off a few years prior) around Narbonne which spread across the region the results of which we see and savour today. (Sample Roman Wine here). The wine, I guess, was for the many churches in Roussillon (see map below).
The Romans, in turn, were replaced by the “ Visigoths” (they laid their towels out in Toulouse and stayed for a while) and so it went on with the Moors spreading out from Africa through the Iberian peninsula and into Southern France (a Moorish “souvenir” can be found in the cloisters of St Genis de Fontaines – see below). Here is a comprehensive account of their occupation of Spain and France (The Moors)
The Roussillon (The Pyrenees Orientales as it is now) was Spanish (or should I say Catalan) until being ceded back to France via the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659.
Since then, the only subsequent occupation was during WWII. The occupation left remnants of the war (e.g., gun emplacements at Cap Bear and elsewhere) and a deeper scar, back in 1944, in the village of Valmanya, which sits in the foothills of Canigou.
There the Germans, looking for the “Maquis” (the French and Spanish resistance fighters), decided to burn the village to the ground and torture and murder Julien Panchot along with other resistance fighters. There is a small museum commemorating the event (inclusive of a history of tin mining that was also carried out there).
Every August the villagers, the local mayors, the Prefet and the army commemorate this tragic event.
Pass the Shovel
If you wish, you can dig deeper, and deeper, using the following links. They provide more information about Canigou, its surroundings and the history of Roussillon (Pyrenees Orientales).
An extended history from 700,000 to 2023
A potted history from 700 BC.
A Catalan history of Roussillon
A PO Life history of the pyrenees-orientales An archival view
More archival links
A cultural view of the PO
Staying around Canigou
Just Canigou
Romanesque art
Mining around Canigou
The Canigó Flame
The Flama del Canigó ritual is gradually becoming more popular and more established. It combines with the Sant Joan midsummer celebrations to evoke the common identity of Catalan-speaking lands.
The fire of the Flama del Canigó (Canigou Flame) is never extinguished. It keeps burning throughout the year at the Perpignan Castillet until 22 June, when it is carried to the mountain’s summit. At midnight the fire from the flame is shared out among those present.
Straightaway they set off, splitting, and spreading the fire to light the Sant Joan bonfires in hundreds of towns, villages and cities.
On foot or horseback, by car, bike, boat, and any possible means of transport, the “Flama del Canigó” reaches every corner of the land, thanks to the efforts of numerous groups and associations. Each village, town and city receive the flame in its own way, with music, devils, dance, etc., but always with a shared ritual. Everywhere, when the flame has reached its destination, before the bonfires are lit, a common message is read out to remind everyone of its significance.
This mobilisation requires a big effort to coordinate the routes the flame takes, complete all the paperwork and steps required to get the necessary authorisation and permits, and to publicise the movement to highlight and spread it. Obviously, all this work starts many months before Sant Joan, and some years ago now, Òmnium Cultural took on the central role as the body in charge of organising and promoting the activities hundreds of individuals, institutions and associations plan
round the flame.
This ritual began in 1955, on the initiative of Francesc Pujades, who lived in Arles de Tec (Arles sur Tech). Inspired by “Canigó”, the famous poem by Jacint Verdaguer (see below) , he got the idea of lighting fires at the top of the mountain for Sant Joan and spreading the flame around. The custom spread rapidly and in 1966 it crossed the border with France for the first time, reaching Vic. Despite Franco’s dictatorship, the tradition gradually spread to all the Catalan-speaking lands, symbolising the survival of the country’s culture. MORE ABOUT LES FEUX DE LA SANT JEAN
The Canigóu is the sacred mountain of the Catalans.
Its geographical location offers a view of the plain of Roussillon and to the South even allows you, on a clear day, to see Barcelona.
In early February and towards the end of October, on a clear evening, you may be able see the peak of Canigou, standing at 9,137 feet above sea level – from Marseilles! Yes, really!
Although approximately 165 miles (253 km) away from the French port town, certain atmospheric conditions allow far away objects that normally can’t be seen because of distance, to come into clear view for a short time.
This is not to say that you should go rushing over to Marseilles with a pair of binoculars because the viewing is very weather dependant, working by refraction of light. Much of the distance between Marseille and the P-O is over the Mediterranean Sea which probably helps too.
This famous peak is also renowned for hosting on its massif the Abbey of Saint Martin de Canigou , the Priory of Serrabonne and a set of long- distance hiking trails.
It was around 1280 that the first ascent of the Canigou would have taken place by Pierre III d’Aragon , king of the Crown of Aragon. However, it seems that the monarch did not go all the way to the top of the peak (heavy weighs the crown maybe?).
The Canigou massif has 9 Natura 2000 sites and three Nature reserves
The bears in the wood
In the foothills of the Canigou many traditions have built up over the years not least the “Fête de l’Ours” in Arles sur Tech (and other local villages). This involves men blacking up and attacking a fake bear (don’t ask). More is revealed here
The Legend óf the 7 giants
A very old legend tells that “Seven gigantic men had undertaken to conquer the heavens by erecting a stone staircase in order to reach the sacred mountain: The Canigó (Canigou).
Seven gigantic men, who made their powers weigh on the people living at the foot of Canigó (Canigou) taken by pride, tried to dethrone the gods of their kingdom.
For this, they wanted to climb up to them by building a colossal staircase. They went up the valley, rolling in front of them huge rocks making the valleys tremble. From Serre Vernet, Pla Guillem and Riuferrer, the slow ascent of the giants, piled up slabs on slabs, grew. The peaks lifted the ridges, defying the highest point of the Canigó (Canigou). Their halts were signaled by a raised stone. As the Canigó was within assault range, the Gods unleashed the Thirteen Winds.
The earth shook and from these depths rose a breath of fire. The torrents were carrying furious eddies. Bursts of night moved dark masses traversed by lightning. The sky was burning, and its ashes blinded the abysses. The winds rose from all sides and petrified the giants into seven heaps of stones:
Le-pic-des-sept-hommes is set at 2,651m and is just South of Canigou in the direction of Prats de Mollo.
The Canigó inspired the epic poem “Canigó”[8] by Catalan poet Jacint Verdaguer i Santaló. In these verses Verdaguer compares the snowy mountain to a Magnolia flower. This Spanish banknote of 1971 had a portrait of Verdaguer on one side, and a picture of Canigou, from Vernet- les-Bains , on the other.
The Canigó is an immense magnolia
that blooms in an offshoot of the Pyrenees;
its bees are the fairies that surround it,
and its butterflies the swans and the eagles.
Its cup are jagged mountain chains,
coloured in silver by the winter and in gold by the summer, huge cup where the star drinks fragrances,
the airs freshness and the clouds water.
The pine forests are its hedges
and the ponds its dew drops,
and its pistil is that golden palace,
seen by the nymph in her dreams descending from heaven.
And there are more.
Canigou is not alone. Other mountains and ranges are similarly named such as Dogtooth Range Canada, or Dog Tooth Peak in the U.S. state of Wyoming.
Oh yes – and then there was this “Poisson Avril.
The daily newspaper, L’Independent, certainly went to town with this little wheeze. Many Catalans were up in arms, until the date was pointed out to them.
Pyrénées-Orientales. Une station de ski va voir le jour sur le Canigou : on vous dévoile ce projet fou !
Ce projet fou est dans les cartons depuis plusieurs mois désormais : six milliardaires catalans vont créer la plus grande station de ski des Pyrénées-Orientales, sur le Canigou !
La montagne sacrée des Catalans va devenir une station de ski dès l’an prochain. Emilien Vicens Publié le 1 Avr 22 à 11:21 mis à jour le 1 Avr 22 à 17:55
C’est une information Actu Perpignan : la plus grande station de ski des Pyrénées-Orientales va voir le jour, l’hiver prochain, sur les pentes de l’emblématique Canigou. La montagne sacrée
des Catalans sera transformée en un gigantesque terrain de jeu pour les touristes de la France entière. On vous présente les coulisses de ce projet complètement fou.
Turning the sacred Canigou into the largest ski resort of the Pyrenees? Hmmmmm.
And let’s not forget to mention the many great Hiking trails
For the various tours, or walks, available, you’ll probably need to stay over in one of the refuges that surround Canigou. I’ve mentioned Cortalets but you also have refuges at Molina, Mas Malet, Mariailles, Batere , Arago, Sant Guillem , and Conques .
Failing that just get on your bike and pedal hard. 🙂
Hit the road Jacques!
The Tet Valley
If a climb to the top, a walk or a bike ride is not for you then you’ll find Canigou is surrounded by beautiful places to visit easily reached by internal combustion engine (or plug in vehicles). A drive from Thuir to Casteil is 49km, with Thuir to Prats de Mollo c.63km (Coustouges and the Spanish frontier, from Thuir, is also c.63km).
- I’m starting arbitrarily at Thuir where you have the Byrrh caves and the gardens of Villa Palauda – Parc Violet.
Nearby Castelnou is perched on a hill in the foothills óf Canigou with beautiful narrow streets and market days dotted through the year.
- At St Michel-de-Cuxa you have an Abbey.
- Ille-sur-tet has the adjacent sandstone “organ pipes” Les Orgues. Further along the valley are priory óf Marcevol and the Vinca reservoir plus Belesta and its Chateau museum tó the North.
- A little further along you have, what is meant to be, the sunniest village in France namely Eus
- You then reach Prades with its annual Pabló Casals concerts a superb wooden altar and the manufacture óf Grenat jewellery .
- At Villefranche de Conflent you have an incredible walled town sitting on the river Tet overlooked by Fórt Liberia and a short stroll will take you to the ‘Canalette Caves’.
In addition, the little yellow train will transport you on a spectacular ride into the Pyrenees, and starts from here. Inside the walls you’ll find a cosy bar run by an ex pompier with lots of fireman’s souvenirs. - Further West from Villefranche is Valley de Rotja which is dominated by the Northwest face of Canigou. This does not appear to harm the apple orchards in the valley below as they produce the best in the region.
- Then there is the Nyer Nature reserve near Olette.
Heading South from Villefranche you reach Vernet les Bains and a little further on you’ll find the Casteil animal park.
- On the way back (you’ve reached the end of the valley at Casteil) and “IF” you have time you may wish to research the links between Vernet and Rudyard Kipling.
- The road from Villefranche also takes you higher and higher to Mont Louis , Font Romeu , Odeilla (and its solar furnace), and onwards to Andorra.
- In the Tech valley you have the centre of Roussillon modern art in the town of Ceret. You also have the site of the Battle of Le Boulou a short distance away.
- Moving up the valley you come to Amelie les Bains (yes there are a lot of baths in the area) and then Arles sur Tech Abbey and tomb, the Tours de Cabrenc and the road to Camprodon (in Spain) with its Retirada museum. Whilst in the area check out Serralongue and its unique Conjurador or head to the most southerly village in France Lamanere.
- The valley road splits past Arles and you can head on up to Prats de Mollo and Fort lagarde or take a left up to Saint Laurent de Cerdans where you have they manufacture traditional Catalan shoes ( Espadrilles ) and cloth ( Toiles du Soleil ) . You can then take the route over the top into Spain via Coustouges and onwards to Jonquera (a huge shopping and lorry staging point and another Retirada museum), plus Figueres (the birthplace of Salvador Dali and the home of one of the largest Forts in the region).
To get up close and personal to Canigou (without going to the top) travel to the Refuge du Batere or, not far from St Laurent, the Domain de Falgos where you can play golf and walk in the nature’s silence at an altitude of 3444 feet. You might even bump into a French national sports team training there!
Between Amelie les Bains and Ille sur Tet yóu have the XI° prióry óf Serrabonne. You can then continue East tó the plain of Roussillon and all its many treasures not least the wine.
Angels and Demons at Serrabonne.
The list above just scratches the surface as each location will lead you to more treasures not least the vineyards of Caramany, the spa at Molitg les Bains, and Mosset with its Perfume tower . Close to Mosset is La Coume (another fascinating story from WWII).
The “Bains”
As you might have noticed the area is dotted with “Bains” to relieve the aches and pains of the day or for you to take a “cure”.
You have Vernet, Amelie, Molitg, St Thomas, Llo, and le Boulou all waiting to get you wet and well.
Art for art’s sake
To round things off why not stop off for a coffee and cognac in Ceret and, if you’re not too tired, pop into the newly enlarged Museum of modern art . There is a monument adjacent to the Mairie (check these links out Ceret artists Part 1 , Part 2, and Part 3) and below are just some of the great artists who have interpreted Canigou.
Pablo Picasso
Auguste Herbin
Andre Mason
Moise Kisling
Louise Tixier-Paillart
William Fenech…….
A photographic tribute to the mountain
Over our 20+ years in the PO I’ve, unsurprisingly, taken snap after snap of our guardian mountain. I’ve photographed it during every season and from most angles so, in its honour, I’ve included a few photos here.
Getting to the top (well almost)
I’ve managed to get to 2600m but have never made it all the way. A good friend has done it 11 times! (So just the 30,600 metres of climb and descent). He also plays a decent game of golf. He and his little group use the Refuge des Cortalets as a stopover and take 2 days to go up and down.
The Climb: An example of the many different routes
If you plan to attempt the climb, be careful and be prepared for rapid changes of weather. Even in August it can be chilly and a compass, whistle, map, torch, layers of clothes and the good boots are recommended. When we went in August, many moons ago, tourists were clambering up wearing T shirts, sandals and not much else. To avoid having to climb all the way you can be taken by 4×4 from Vernet les Bains to Cortalets (2175m) and then walk the rest of the way. “Easy peasy” but check that the 4x4s are running as landslides, weather and environmental issues might hamper their ability to set off.
If you just want to skirt the summit, then the “cross Pyrenees” GR10 path will do just that. This section of the route The GR10 around Canigou will take you from Vernet les Bains all the way to Mediterranean.
What next?
With Canigou watching over events for over 100,000 years who knows what it can expect to witness in the future. The population of the Pyrenees Orientales has doubled since 2000. New roads and motorways have been laid along with high-speed rail links. The terrain bristles with wind turbines and shimmers with solar panels. Bio farming has progressed as has tourism to match the 300+ days a year of sunshine.
We’ve had small seismic events, flooding, droughts, the ever-present Tramuntana wind plus extremes of temperature affecting wines and crops across the region. Maybe a few more golf courses wouldn’t hurt but with water at a premium I’m sure the eco warriors would put a stop to them. I think we can safely say the Canigou is not going anywhere soon and will be around for another 100,000 years to watch events unfold.
There’s a storm a comin’
Excellent article and so comprehensive. Great photos too.